Riding Salsa’s Coast-to-Coast Wave of Popularity, by Florence Fabricant, June 2, 1993

"A cookbook called 'Salsa' by Reed Hearon, a former chef at Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe, N.M., and now the chef at Lulu in San Francisco, was just published by Chronicle Books ($12.95). Another called 'Salsa,' by P. J. Birosik, the food editor of The Sedona (Ariz.) Red Rock News, will be released by Collier Books ($13) next month. 'Salsas, Sambals, Chutneys and Chow-Chows,' by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby (Morrow, $20), is just out."

Salsas, Sambals, Chutneys & Chowchows, by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby, 1993

"I call this a salsa because the guy who first made it for me loved to listen to salsa music. He was from El Salvador, and his job in the restaurant was to make sure all the food was received in good order. When the clams would come in, he'd always pick up a few and put them off to one side, then work on them over the next couple of hours, shucking the clams and chopping them as he got the chance, squeezing the lime, adding the Tabasco. When lunchtime rolled around, he'd eat this mixture with crackers like a kind of clam cocktail. Every so often, if I had given him some help during the morning, I'd find a little bowl on my cutting board... It was always a treat... in the true style of Elmer himself, with saltines."